RV Towing 101 with Josh the RV Nerd

In this episode, we’re excited to welcome back Josh the RV Nerd, a trusted expert in the RV world known for his popular YouTube channel. If you’re not familiar with Josh, he provides some of the best RV walkthroughs and in-depth discussions on the state of the RV industry. 

Josh first joined us on RV Out West in January 2022, and we’re thrilled to have him back to dive into one of the most important aspects of RV ownership—towing. Today, we’re talking about why it’s critical to match your tow vehicle to your RV, and what numbers you need to know to ensure safe and efficient travel.

Towing an RV isn’t just about hooking it up and hitting the road. There are key factors that every RV owner should understand. In this episode, Josh breaks down what these numbers mean and offers valuable insights on how to find the right tow vehicle for your specific RV model.

Whether you’re a new RV owner or a seasoned traveler, this episode is packed with expert tips that will help you avoid costly mistakes and ensure your RV trips are safe and enjoyable. So, if you’re ready to hit the road with confidence, tune in to learn from Josh the RV Nerd.

This is an essential guide to RV towing!

For more information, watch Josh the RV Nerd’s video:
How Much Can You ACTUALLY Tow? • What Size Truck Do I Need??

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Question of the Month

Transcript

 Josh, the RV nerd joins us and we talk about what you need to know about matching a tow vehicle to an RV. So stay tuned.  

Welcome to RV Out West. I'm your host Brooks. My family of four's base camp is located in the beautiful Pacific Northwest and our RV adventures radiate out from there. Please grab a mug of coffee and join us as we discuss RVing around the American West.

From sweet camping spots, gear and equipment, to tips and tricks, we've got you covered. We are RV Out West. Josh the RV nerd joins us on the show again. If you're not familiar, you can find Josh on YouTube talking about the state of the RV industry, as well as producing some of the best walkthrough videos.

Be sure to check out his channel if you're not familiar. Josh first joined us on the show back in January of 2022 for episode 19. Today, Josh and I talk about RV towing, why the numbers matter, and he shares a lot of great information that we all should know. Josh, thank you again for joining us on RV Out West.

It's great to chat with you. 

My pleasure, man. Thanks for having me again. It's been two 

years?  I think so. I think it's been about two years. So thanks again for coming on the show. 

Hopefully I can help a couple people avoid some pitfalls today. That's really my goal. 

That's great. And that's my goal as well.

None of what we're saying, uh, everybody should obviously do their own research for their own particular tow vehicle and trailers, but I do think it's an important topic. So let's kind of jump in. Can you provide Overview of why a properly matching your tow vehicle to the trailer is important. 

I mean, for me, it's it really just all comes down to the safety factors.

Uh, and you know, the, the, the extreme example is Hopefully we can avoid somebody getting killed. Uh, that is a very plausible result of a bad toe pairing, you know, and that may sound a little dramatic. So we'll just simply say perhaps avoiding Very costly repairs to things like your truck and or trailer, avoiding dealing with the insurance company, avoiding losing that vacation to an unforeseen, um, you know, loss of control or anything like that.

Any of those major catastrophe things we can help avoid. That would be great because again, Just even improperly pairing this stuff up could just cause extra wear and tear on your vehicle that, you know, could cost you thousands of dollars that you weren't planning on. 

So, specific things to look for when you're trying to do a pairing, if you will, between your tow vehicle and your trailer.

There's max towing capacity and payload and gross axle weight rating and gross combined rate rating and curb weight and payload and all that. It gets really overwhelming and daunting, especially to somebody who's a new. new to RVing and trying to figure it all out. So really kind of what should they be looking for? 

Well, the typical pitfall that people run into and the way that most sales people will try to pair you up, and this is true of salespeople, both at many automotive dealerships and at RV dealerships is they will present to you the trailer's dry weight.  And try to match that against your vehicle's maximum towing capacity,  but  You're pairing the trailer's minimum weight against the vehicle's maximum weight.

And when you say it like that, you start to realize maybe that's not the correct, uh, dots to connect. You really want to pair the trailer's maximum potential weight against the vehicle so that no matter what, no matter what you load into it, you'll never be forced into an, uh, unsafe situation. Uh, unfortunately doing it that way limits the sales opportunities that a lot of people would potentially have, and that limits people's paychecks.

And that tends not to be the way a lot of people want to look at it. And like you said, when you're a new person coming into this,  There's so many numbers. You don't know what all these numbers mean.  How do you know what to pair them up against? And it, it took me a little while to actually learn it properly.

I don't know that I was properly trained initially. And if you watch the history of my channel, you'll actually see where my towing recommendations have evolved over the years and have really become a little more conservative because as I've traveled more and seen more of the country and experienced more towing scenarios, I realize that what is half ton towable in cornfield, flatland, no wind, southern Michigan, is not the same trailer that's half ton towable through the Rocky Mountains or across the windy plains of our country.

So,  There's, it's, it's, it's more than just weight. It's also scenarios, but hopefully we can kind of go through and sort of peel this onion apart layer by layer here. 

And that's a great, that's a great point you made because especially out here in the Pacific Northwest, you know, we have a ton of mountain ranges.

And so there is a lot of mountain. Passes and mountain towing. I have a Jayco 267, uh, BHSW, the 26 wheel bunkhouse.  And I was towing that with an F 150 with the five liter V8. And  I thought on paper, I was good to go, but I was towing over the mountains at about 45, getting passed by 18 wheelers and then coming down off that mountain pass, you know, the brakes were hot and it was just, I was like, this isn't, I need a new vehicle.

Yeah. And, and the exact pairing you just described would probably be aces all day in my backyard over here in Southern Michigan. But, you know, where you take it is as much of a factor sometimes as what you're taking. Um, so I, I think to kind of expand on your initial question there, like, what should we look for? 

You. really want to know the basics of your vehicle. And there's a lot of different numbers to look at, but let's keep it just to the simple basics today, which will cover about 99 percent of people. Frankly,  you want to find out what your, your towing capacity is. And I think one of the, if you, if you start.

Opening all your books and stuff. Some manufacturers are really good about putting just, here's the tow rating right in their documentation. Some are not, and it's really baffling that they're not more obvious with this.  But I think an easy way to really verify that  is to get your VIN number and call the service department of the vehicle manufacturer, uh, for your particular, you know, car, truck, or SUV.

And, uh, And ask the service department people what your tow rating is. They can pump that right into your computer and pull that straight up. They have all the numbers they can look at right there on screen. You don't have to try to cross reference in a towing guide. You don't need an abacus. It's just going to be simple, direct, and easy.

And that's usually the, about the only number that a lot of people focus on is just the tow rating. But the funny thing is, The number that you will exceed and go into the red first, almost every time is not your toe rating. You will almost always exhaust your payload capacity before your towing capacity.

So when you talk about towing capacity, are you talking about the gross combined weight rating? 

No. So yeah, that's another different factor. Your gross combined weight rating,  is the weight of the truck plus the maximum weight that it can tow. So, if you take your gross combined rating, subtract your vehicle's curb weight, The end result, what's left over is your maximum towing capacity.

But if I call the manufacturer with my VIN, you know, or the dealership with my VIN, they'll give me that towing capacity number.  

Yeah, they absolutely should. I recommend people do that all the time. Uh, and it seems like the guys in the service departments are usually best for that. And, uh, it's just a really easy thing for them to pop in by then they have all the data right there.

And usually they can look right at it and go, yep, you're rated to tow 13, 700 pounds or whatever the number is. 

That's a great, great tip. Thank you. 

Yeah, no. And, and, and what's nice about that is you're getting an unbiased party assisting you, well, frankly, it's somebody who represents the vehicle that you own, assisting you.

If you. Start to involve a dealership salesperson. There's many, many well trained, very excellent dealership salespeople out there,  but if they have money on the line, sometimes that clouds people's judgments and oftentimes they're not trained properly. That puts you into a potentially unsafe situation that you paid a lot of money to get into.

And there is no easy way out of it. There's no like, well, this didn't work out the way that I thought.  You own it. You're past the point of no return. There's all this talk in the industry about tow rating, but the fact is you will almost always exhaust your payload rating before your tow rating. And for anyone who doesn't know what that is, I think the easiest way to describe this is imagine that you as a person are standing there and in front of you is a radio flyer wagon and a backpack full of bricks.

If you put the backpack full of bricks in the radio flyer wagon and pull it, that is toe rating. That's moving weight horizontally.  If you then take that backpack full of bricks and strap it on your back, that is payload. That is how much weight you're The vehicle can carry vertically down on its suspension and frame and everything else before it starts to break down.

People always want to feel and think like trailer weighs 9, 800 pounds. My tow ratings, 10, 000 pounds. Well, that's, that's in the black. Yeah. But at your absolute maximum and just like you experienced Brooks. Even if it's well below your maximum, when you start to put that truck, uh, truck trailer pairing into a, a more demanding towing scenario, it starts to demand more of the truck and it starts to become a problem very, very quickly because there's all this talk and all this focus on tow rating.

The whole payload conversation almost always gets missed. And what's funny is your payload is one of the easiest things for you to locate. It's actually listed right on one of the stickers within your door jam, uh, usually on the tire information sticker. So that that number actually is very easily visible as easy as it almost sounded  it's it's not because the RV manufacturers don't make it very easy for you to figure out how much the actual hitch weight of their RV is going to be.

The payload, if I'm correct, takes into effect, then also how many passengers. You have in your vehicle, if you have a full tank of gas, what other potential, you know, a cooler, whatever bikes, whatever cargo you might obviously have in the, the bed of the truck is payload, but then you add the hitch way from your trailer onto it.

And that also gets added, correct? 

Um, I, I would almost suggest going about it in a more inverse logic fashion here. Like you're saying this adds to payload. I almost think you want to take your available payload and start subtracting from it, everything that you're throwing at it to make sure you stay in a positive black number and the higher the result, the better.

So if anyone's not familiar with this. You find your vehicle's maximum payload rating, and again those same auto dealership service people can also assist you with that if you're just really wanting absolute verification and certainty. Take your payload rating, subtract the body weight of the passengers in the vehicle. 

Now subtract the weight of the actual hitch that you're going to be using, and this is true of a travel trailer or fifth wheel hitch. Either way, it works the same. Then you want to subtract the hitch weight of the RV, but that's the trick. You don't actually know how much your RVs hitch is going to weigh until after you've bought it, after you've loaded it.

And then taking it across some scales. There are some ways that you can estimate to a pretty high degree of accuracy, but until you already own it, and it's pretty much too late, there's no way to really know for sure. And that's why I really like to teach people how to fish on this so that they can really understand the numbers before it's too late.

You're like, what do you mean? How, why is it so hard to find? The hitch weight of an RV. It's listed right in the brochure or on their website, dummy. That is the empty hitch weight of that RV. That could be with no battery, no propane, nothing in the RV, not a single graham cracker.  And obviously you're going to load cargo into it.

And consider the vast majority of RVs, where is the biggest bulk of storage? That huge pass through compartment, where is that located? Dead on the nose of the trailer. 

Right. 

There is a way to kind of figure that out. It takes just a little bit of basic math and it's only about two steps. But the RV manufacturer provides you with the empty weight of the RV, with the hitch weight of the RV, and the maximum weight, the GVW, the gross weight.

That's the empty weight plus maximum cargo this thing can possibly weigh. So if you take the brochure hitch weight empty, divide that by the empty weight, you're going to get a ratio. Now multiply that result by the GVW and you will get a very  good approximation of what your maximum loaded hitch weight will be.

Now, every person's going to load different cargo and they're going to load it differently within the RV. But generally speaking, I've really found that simple two step math equation that you can punch into the calculator on your phone and get an answer immediately. I found that to be very highly reliable.

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It's that simple. Visit camperalerts. com today and start setting your alerts. My Jayco 267, they say the dry hitch weight is 790  and the unloaded vehicle weight  is 5905. So you're saying to take 5905 and divide by 790? No, other way. 

790 divided by 5905. 

Gives us 0. 133.  

What that's telling you is 13. 3 percent of that RV's weight is expressed on the hitch.

Okay.  So now all 

you do is just hit the multiply button, type the GVW and hit equals. 

So GV, GVW gross vehicle weight rating on this particular trailer is 7, 600. So that's 1, 016 pounds.  

What that means is that assuming we're going to round up, yep. Assuming you had fully loaded maximum cargo spread evenly through that RV. 

That end result, that 1000, whatever pounds, that's how much loaded hitch weight  you would probably expect to find on your RV immediately, potentially a couple hundred pounds higher than the brochure had you thinking. On a 2020 F 150,  Depending on the trim package and the bed and the cab and every other thing. 

Yep. Your payload rating is probably somewhere between 1300 to 1800 pounds. But so then that's kind of a trick with half tons. The half tons have the widest range and widest variety of capacities out there. So if someone says I got a half ton, can I pull it?  The answer is, I don't know. I need to know more about your truck, you know.

So if you're saying it has about 1, 300 on average payload,  and then we're saying that this trailer that we were just talking about, this Jayco is 1, 000, that gives me 300 pounds. 

Yeah, and depending on what you had for breakfast, two people can immediately overload that. Now, Again, it depends on a specific F 150.

I've seen them that low. I've seen F 150s well above that. That's where people get into such a problem because most of the literature in the entire RV industry and from most RV dealerships that describes something as half ton towable, it should say half ton towable asterisk. And it should say, if you have this specific truck with these specific capacities and trim packages, because it's possible to get an F 150 that can pull well over 12, 000 pounds and carry like 3000 pounds of payload, but that's not the truck that is available at the dealership, unless you go custom order.

It's not the truck that's just sitting there. 

Okay, well, so we've talked about payload and max towing capacity. Do we really need to look at gross axle weight rating and axle ratios? Or is that just a much deeper dive? You know, if somebody wants to completely geek out on this and really, really  do it, they can.

But if you're just Talking to a newbie who just wants to know, will my vehicle tow this trailer or hey, I just bought this trailer. What kind of vehicle should I now go buy? Max towing capacity and the payload. Is really where 

one should. Those are, those are the numbers that will probably serve 99 percent of people.

Every, all those gross axle ratings, all those things do matter. They do. There's about eight different numbers that all need to check in the black and none of them can go in the red to ensure a safe pairing. But  at the end of the day, the two numbers that will pretty much cause the other, all the other six numbers to be in line are your tow rating and your payload rating.

Those are the two easiest things for somebody to look at, to understand, and to, to know how to disqualify a potential trailer. 

To the listeners, I, you know, Josh has done an incredible video. I'll make sure I link link to it in the show notes too. So if you do want to go do a much deeper dive and understand these numbers, you can go watch Josh's video as he explains it.

And it's a great video and super helpful. So that will even be a much deeper dive. Let's talk about the different kind of hitches and, you know, should somebody, what's the benefit of adding airbags on the rear end of their tow vehicle if necessary? And what are some of those other things that they need to look at?

You know, sway distribution bars versus the chains and why somebody might want to use them. 

Yeah, there's some of those things and a lot of people feel really sore about that. They're like, what do you mean? I just spent 30 grand on a trailer. I have another 600 due for a hitch. The reason that it jumps out so hard is like you said, it was a significant spend that you just hadn't even considered yet.

It's one of those things. If you buy a house. The furniture usually isn't part of the purchase. You know, there's things that you have to get with it to make it work potentially properly. There are actually technically two different things happening with most hitches. There's weight distribution and there's anti sway, but It's less of an issue now because most of your newer modern hitches do both at the same time.

Anti sway is pretty simple to understand. It helps keep the trailer from wiggling. It helps keep the tail from waggling the dog. You know, I think a lot of people, the name helps describe it, but weight distribution, like I know what those words mean, but how do they relate to this scenario? Go back to that hitch weight discussion that we had.

100 percent of that hitch weight is pushing down basically right on the rear receiver hitch of a truck. And if you think about the location of that hitch, it's all the way behind the axle. It's the furthest point back on the truck. So if you think of it almost like, um, a seesaw effect, it's giving it the greatest push down on the truck.

On the truck in the back. If you squat the truck too far in the back, your truck's supposed to basically ride flat. So if your truck is not on a level plane, if it's squatted down in the back, more weight than anticipated is being expressed on the rear part of the frame. Your. Uh, bearings, your brakes, your axle, all of that stuff is now carrying more weight than it should.

And, by contrast, usually if the truck is squatted in the back, the trailer is, um, squatted in the front.  And that means that the front axle of that trailer is also carrying more weight and stress than it's supposed to. That's where a weight distribution hitch comes in.  It  redistributes how that force is expressed and it doesn't get rid of that weight.

Some people think, oh, it, it, it just reduces some of your hitch weight and it puts it back on the trailer. It doesn't. It actually pushes some of that hitch weight up onto the front of the vehicle and the back of the trailer. And, as a result, that moves the weight back where it's supposed to be so that the truck and trailer all ride flat. 

Now, when you do that, you are applying a little bit extra stress on the tongue. So, if you're going to go over some really rough terrain, You actually sometimes want to remove your weight distribution hitch so that you're not over torquing the A frame on the trailer in a way that it wasn't expected. And you will find a high correlation of what I just said, um, with the, the people who tow on things like Alaskan highways or something like that.

Where they have these terrible, terrible roads and they'll say, well, I went over a bump and my trailer tongue bent. And a lot of times there's a weight distribution hitch involved there. And it's a really awkward conversation like, well, what do you mean? You know, I, I can't use the hitch while I tow well, not under more demanding situations.

It's really made for like highway use. It's not made for anything more extreme. 

So if you are driving the Dalton or heading up to. The Arctic and you're on one of those gravel roads, you're suggesting don't actually use the weight distribution bars on that hitch. 

Yeah. And, and I get that that people are like, well, what do you mean?

What am I supposed to do then? Well, a lot of the conventional travel trailers that, that populate the majority of the industry, they are not built and intended to go. Down the more extreme roads like that. So as a result, it's kind of like putting a square peg at a round hole. And some people are like, well, I bought it to do that.

Well, I get it. But the trailer wasn't made to do that. The problem was that no one who took their money was willing to tell them that. 

And then airbags, you know, on my F 150, I put airbags on while I still had weight distribution hitch on my F 150. The airbags were able to help with the squat a little bit. 

What a lot of people are trying to do with airbags is to, to fix a lacking payload capacity, that vertical carry, not the horizontal pull. Um, again, really important to understand the difference between towing and payload. So  the trick with airbags, what they do is they stiffen up your suspension and they can basically force your truck to not squat as much.

What they don't actually do is change your payload rating. They don't. Benefit to these, uh, to airbag systems is they'll stiffen up your suspension, help you regain control, help you keep the weight where it's supposed to be on all four tires or all eight tires, as it were.  If your payload rating is 300 pounds below the trailer's hitch weight, Airbags are not the solution because they don't actually change the stress that is being applied to your truck and its components.

They don't, they don't dampen the stress on things like your brakes, your drivetrain, your axles. You are still overloading those beyond what your vehicle's manufacturer has suggested. Now, if you're in a situation where you've got a lot of crosswinds, And a softer suspension in the back is causing your, your truck and trailer to kind of, you know, sway and wiggle a little bit, if you feel like.

The trailer's maybe a little top heavy and it's trying to body roll and it's really muscling the truck around. That's where airbags are awesome. They stiffen that back end of your vehicle up and they allow your vehicle to have that extra support to fight against the trailer's forces that are trying to put you into a dangerous situation. 

What they don't do, and I cannot stress this enough, is they don't fix  A lacking payload on your vehicle. 

And that makes sense. 

But where that, that is such an issue is there are so many people that want to buy something like a quote half ton towable fifth wheel that is too heavy for most half tons to handle. 

It has too much hitch weight for most half tons to handle with their payload rating.  So many dealerships just go put airbags on it. Yeah. That'll fix it. That fixes everything. And now they'll take your money on the RV, on the hitch they're installing, and the airbags they're installing for you. And technically, you are in the red on your payload rating, and you are burning your vehicle out at both ends. 

If somebody is brand new, wanting to get into the RV life, and get into RVing, and they're like, Hey, this is, you know, something we want to do, 

This is one of the topics that I, I, I have these little RV seminars that I do at certain RV shows and one of them, I call it, you know, eight tips, uh, for first time buyers and tip number one. 

Is the first time you use an RV  don't buy the RV new or used the first time you use an RV You should try to rent Borrow do like an rvshare. com rental or something like that because a lot of rv dealerships don't have rentals There's so many people that buy rvs who don't use them a ton that rent out the use of their RV in the meantime.

And sometimes it's even just a situation where they may even have like, they could even possibly deliver it for you. Maybe the towing factors isn't even part of the situation yet.  I think the first thing you need to do is just go out for a weekend and decide, can you possibly cohabitate? With these other humans in this tiny box for this period of time before you go cabin crazy and want to kill one another.

Right. But let's say that they've already done that and they're past it and they were like, Hey, we are into this and maybe they were in a 26 foot bunk house and they're a family of four and they're like, this is great. This works for our family, but they're driving a minivan.  You know, or they've got a, whatever, Subaru Forester or something, you know.

No, I get what you're saying. In a perfect world, my recommendation is pick the cart before you buy the horse. And what I mean by that is find the RV that you want. Even if you don't buy it, I'm not saying buy the RV first, because that can be kind of silly, but  pick the RV that you want. And then in an ideal world, you know, what vehicle you'll need to handle it safety safely, but in the situation you've described.

That's not what we're talking about. This is a person who maybe, like I'll run into a lot of people who have a smaller pickup or just don't want to drive a big truck every day just to haul a trailer a couple of times, you know, they still want to keep their nice daily driver and they don't have the budget to get a new vehicle.

At that point, you really need to know what your capacities are in that vehicle, towing and payload. You need to know what trailers can fit within that. And then you have to decide, are you okay with what those small trailers may have to offer? One of the other things you, you mentioned minivans and Subarus, if somebody has a smaller vehicle like that, like a non traditional tow vehicle.

So some kind of smaller SUV or big wagon kind of thing, you know, you also. May want to check with the manufacturer of your vehicle. Like again, that service department guy to ask if you can use a weight distribution with your vehicle. There are a lot of things out there that have like unibody designs. Uh, again, those Subaru is kind of coming to mind where.

If you hook up a weight distribution system, it applies stress to the frame of that vehicle in a way it was not intended for, and it can tweak it out of spec. And we've heard about the frame flex conversation in RVs. You can cause frame flex in your vehicle  if you're not careful. 

Something maybe that we, I overlooked or we didn't talk about that's an important comma and to this conversation.

There will be times, especially as we roll into fall and then. After we go through snowflake season into spring, we're going to start running into a bunch of RV shows real fast, and there'll be a lot of people. At these shows who are Instructed to get the customer to say yes and buy today and that's that's their job.

That's why they're there. I get that That's fine But make sure you have the ability to verify all of your Towing capacities and everything first. Like if you're not, if you're like, boy, I like that. I'm not sure if my vehicle can tow it. And it's like seven o'clock at night. So you can't call the service center guy with your VIN number to get the specs.

Remember  there's no gotta have it right now. This is the last opportunity ever like RV show special that wouldn't still be there tomorrow.  So don't ever let somebody force you into something and then tow one safely. And I want to leave you with one final crazy thought here. The reason I'm so outspoken on this now, RVIA  or RV, who was it?

Go RVing? Somebody, so one of these big RV groups did this study  and they found out that more than 50 percent of people  are exceeding their tow capacity based on the trailer's GVW.  More than 50 percent of people on the road with a towable RV right now are actually towing more weight than they're supposed to.

I read that same article. Yeah, it was, um, I read it and it was actually, I think it was 56%.  

The majority of people are towing unsafely because they don't know any better.  And no one's telling them any differently. I've met people in my career who think my truck is special and they think their truck can magically handle more weight than everybody says it can.

Okay, fine. There's also those people who go, listen.  I know it's more than I should be handling, but I stay local. I don't go far and I go slow. I still don't even condone that, but I understand that.  But there's also the vast, vast majority of people just go,  can my truck handle that? And someone says, if you're giving me your money, I'm going to tell you yes. 

That's the ugly truth of the matter. 

I always tell new people too, that the day you're bringing your trailer home, and it is the lightest it is ever going to be because you haven't even put to your point, by the way, I love the graham cracker reference. You haven't even put the graham cracker in it yet. I suggest people go weigh their tow vehicle with a full tank of gas and whoever's in the vehicle with them and do the cat scale and weigh yourself with your tow vehicle and your unloaded trailer, Then go home, load your trailer with your towels and your plates and your cups and your pots and pans, coffee pot, ice machine, whatever it might be.

And then on your first or second trip out again, reweigh yourself now with groceries on board and all of your stuff is in it. And then you can get a better idea because now you have pre and post. 

And I highly recommend folks, there, there are plenty of people out there who've done videos showing you how to read Catscale tickets.

What a lot of people don't realize is you actually basically need to scale your thing twice. You need to scale your truck unhooked. Then you need to hook up to your trailer and scale it again. And that will tell you things like your actual loaded trailer hitch weight. But, if you don't know that you're like, okay I went across the scales and they gave me this yellow piece of paper with digital numbers printed on it, now what?

So there are YouTube videos out there that are very easy and simple to follow. I highly, highly recommend looking into something like that. It'll cost you nothing and it might save you a bunch. 

Will Josh Thank you again so much for coming on RV Out West. I deeply appreciate it. And this was a great knowledge dump.

And again, I am so appreciative. So thank you. 

Hey, thanks for having me. I hope everybody has a good time and happy camping everyone.  

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I sincerely appreciate it. Will you kindly give RV Out West a follow on Facebook and Instagram and join us in the conversation? We look forward to hearing from you in next week's episode. We find Connor and his yellow backpack of find me in Seattle. And we do a deep dive into the food scene, as well as what you can see in the city that you may not find in a guidebook.

Thanks so much for listening to RV out west. Join us again next week. Please like, and subscribe to our podcast on Apple podcasts.  wherever you choose to get your podcasts. So you never miss an episode. I sure would appreciate it. If you left a rating or a review of the show, special thanks to Scott Holmes music for providing us the intro song.

We are one RV out West can be found on Instagram and Facebook, where you can interact with us and follow along on our RV adventures around the Pacific Northwest. So get out there, explore and go see what's beyond the horizon.